Always a Top Notch Experience with Zaytinya’s Top Chef

If you’re looking for a Greek restaurant where the waiters shout “Opa” while serving flaming plates of saganaki and the patrons dance on tables while breaking plates, head to Greek Town in Detroit, not to Zaytinya.  The mezze on Zaytinya’s vast menu are true to the flavors and cooking styles of Greece, Lebanon and Turkey, but the dishes are far from ordinary.

Veal cheeks, lamb shoulders and duck breast, oh my. Just a few of the unique mezze we enjoyed at the bar last Thursday. Many diners would frown upon the idea of going to a restaurant at 10:00 pm. But as the dinner rush ended, Executive Chef Mike Isabella, took the opportunity to send out some of his favorite small plates and create a few flavor combos on the fly. It was a little Top Chef-esque and we, along with Mike’s wife Stacy, were happy to be the guest judges.

Photo Credit: BravoTV.com

While Bravo paints a brash and somewhat sexist picture of Mike on this season of Top Chef , he is anything but. A confident and charismatic guy who is genuinely passionate about creating his own dishes, Mike never tires of talking shop, sharing recipes and teaching pros and novices alike.

 Now on to the good stuff…

Kibbeh Nayeh

Kibbeh Nayeh (Lebanese-Style Beef Tartare): This freshly ground beef is mixed with bulgur wheat, radish, mint and spices. The flavors are clean and the texture is surprisingly not greasy as you often find in steak and salmon tartars. The freshly baked, warm pita bread is the perfect spoon for this dish.

Veal Cheeks

Veal Cheeks: These tender pieces of beef were sous vide (French for “under vacuum”), sealed in plastic and cooked in a warm water bath for 12 hours. Served with chanterelle mushrooms, these cheeks were easily the most tender pieces of veal we’ve tried.

Lamb Shoulder

Spit-Roasted Lamb Shoulder: If you sit on the first level of the restaurant near the open kitchen you’ll have a great view of the bustling staff and may see some lamb slow roasting on the indoor spit. The juicy slices of lamb have a great charred flavor and traditional seasoning, but flavor and quality of the meat shines through.

Octopus Santorini: As Mike likes to say “it’s all about flavors and textures.” Preparing octopus is a great example where the charred and slightly acidic flavor and the tender yet firm texture really make this a successful dish. It’s served over a smooth yellow split-pea puree.

Charcuterie Plate of Smoked Duck and Accompaniments: Chef Mike assembled this dish from some extras that were too tasty to waste. The plate featured thinly sliced smoked duck breast with a semi-sweet sauce, pear slices and crackers . This well-paired combo is not currently on the menu, but we think it should be.

Crispy Brussel Sprouts: These aren’t your grandma’s brussel spouts. The flash-fried buds are sliced and tossed with coriander seeds, barberries and a touch of Greek yoghurt, providing a surprising texture and a sweet, salty, tangy flavor profile.

In full disclosure, Zaytinya is one of our top five favorite restaurants. Chef Mike and his new bride, Stacy, are personal friends, so we are fortunate to frequent the eatery and gobble up culinary tips from Mike and his staff by the spoonful.

Our advice: Make reservations, come hungry and bring friends.